• 3

碟煞煞不住,難煞

單純物理作用罷了,跟機械甚麼無關

你也可以只煞後輪,但就是效果比較差然後可能煞不住或甩尾

hungmaxy wrote:
看廣告詞應該是機械設定...
不然現在幾乎每台車後碟都在比大
卡鉗不是單二就對二
勁戰後碟200MM+單活塞設定...(恕刪)


我只是想瞭解,不是要凸槽...
那麼是針對所有煞車系統都一樣嗎?
1. 前鼓+後鼓
2. 前碟+後鼓
3. 前碟+後碟

還有前煞力道要比後煞力道大二倍的原因是什麼?
1. 因為前煞鎖死比較沒關係,後煞有沒煞都無所謂,或後煞鎖死比較危險
2. 因為前煞要用2倍的力量才能達到和後煞一樣的煞車力道
3. 其他?

純討論...
幸福很簡單~自我感覺超級良好!

RiaSakura wrote:
發表會的宣傳影片就有提到前七後三.....(恕刪)



沒錯! 很明確的是原廠煞車力道的設定就是前七後三,不是用人力煞車的力道, 終於找到這個說法的發源了!
幸福很簡單~自我感覺超級良好!
樓主這症頭應該是液壓系統內有空氣,
只要空氣排乾淨,就可大幅改善剎車性能了.

v1852465 wrote:
小弟我四代戰騎了一...換了煞車油會不會比較好?還是補煞車油?(恕刪)


煞車片磨到1/2以上,煞車油的液位會明顯降低,導致煞車力道不佳,若檢查煞車片還堪用,補油就好.否則還是換來令片比較保險.
幸福很簡單~自我感覺超級良好!

謝幸福3948 wrote:
我只是想瞭解,不是...(恕刪)

有在其車就自己試試看吧
單用前煞跟單用後煞在不鎖死的情況下哪個可以最快把車停下來
你就知道汽機車為什麼要這樣配了


謝幸福3948 wrote:
我只是想瞭解,不是...(恕刪)


http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=415&t=3750342&p=5

這是2014的討論串,裡面有解答
四代競戰,後碟為200mm+單向單活塞卡鉗

不論來另片煞車面積及活塞數量都比前碟小又少,目前碟盤沒改裝品,能改的只有來另片,或換金屬油管、卡鉗換掉,增加煞車力道。
謝幸福3948 wrote:
我只是想瞭解,不是...(恕刪)


找到根據了, 原址: http://motorcycles.about.com/od/commonquestions/a/how_to_brake_on_a_motorcycle.htm


參考下列紅字, 因煞車減速時力道之轉移使得前輪會負荷較多重量,後輪則會慢慢減輕, 使得後輪容易鎖死及打滑造成危險(若施加的煞車力道一樣時),故前70% 後30% 的煞車力道被建議來使用,但不同的車種可能需稍加調整..

前面很多大師都講對了,後輪的煞車力道在原設計上就是比較低的.以防止鎖死打滑.

Common Questions: How to Brake on a Motorcycle
Stop effectively and safely with these tips
AdsHow to Ride a MotorcycleMotorcycle AccidentAnti Brake SystemCar BrakeMotorcycle Riding SafetyMoped Motorcycle Scooter

Ildar Sagdejev/Wikipedia
Ildar Sagdejev/Wikipedia
By Basem Wasef
Motorcycles Expert
Updated May 29, 2015.
Braking is one of the most important things you’ll learn to do on a motorcycle; though newbies tend to get stuck on techniques like shifting and countersteering, the most effective way to avoid an accident is through proper use of the brakes.

Here are a few common questions about how to stop on bike; for more on the topic, you can also check out this video.

Should I use the front, rear brake… or both?
Balance is crucial to a motorcycle’s dynamics, and that’s why most bikes have individual front and rear brake controls. Most experts agree that roughly 70% of braking effort should go to the front wheel (which uses the hand lever on the right grip), and 30% to the rear (which is operated by the right foot pedal.) Front brakes require more effort because weight transfer from slowing down will shift the bike’s balance from the rear wheel to the front, enabling the front tire to handle more load. When there’s less downforce on the rear tire, it becomes much easier to lockup and slide that wheel, resulting in a loss of control...

CONTINUE READING BELOW OUR VIDEO
How To Brake On A Motorcycle

0:00
/
0:00

the front, however, is less likely to slip because of the weight transferred to that end.



Braking by bike type
The 70/30 braking ratio can shift slightly based on the type of bike you’re riding; cruisers and choppers can handle more rear braking because they carry more weight over their rear wheel due to the rearward position of the saddle, while sport bikes can tolerate higher front braking effort since their forks are more vertical and their wheelbases are shorter. Dirt bikes rarely see front brake usage due to the nature of loose terrain (see more on this in “Be aware of road conditions,” below.) In the hands of experienced riders, motard or supermoto bikes can even be slowed down by sliding out the rear tire.

How hard can I brake?


Learning the finer points of your bike’s braking performance is the key to keeping your bike in control, so it’s a good idea to explore those limits in a safe environment. Practice repeated stops in an abandoned parking lot or empty lot, and you’ll start to get a feel for the amount of effort that triggers tire slip. Try stopping with your fronts only, your rears only, and then a combination of both: that way, you’ll get a sense of how hard you can apply the brakes in a panic stopping situation.

Once you become familiar with your bike’s brakes, the sensations of weight transfer will start to feel more apparent. Stopping hard enough on the fronts might even lift the rear wheel up, and using the rear brakes hard enough will cause a skid. You will also find that you can get away with applying more pressure at higher speeds. Learn those limits, and you’ll be much better prepared for the unexpected.

The lean angle issue
Tires are most effective when they’re upright, so you’ll need to keep that in mind when you start to lean your bike over. Let’s say that 100% of a tire’s available grip is available when it’s at a 90 degree angle; once that angle starts decreasing, its ability to maintain grip will also drop. Though grabbing the front brake might not break the tire free when it’s upright, the same effort could cause a skid when the tire is leaned over, and that loss of traction can instantly lead you to “tuck” the tire under, triggering a wipeout. Some braking effort can be applied while a motorcycle is turning, but the bike will be far less tolerant of brake input when increased lean angles are involved. Be hyper aware when you squeeze the brakes while you’re turning, and try to get most—if not all—of your braking before you turn.

Be aware of road conditions
Different road conditions require different braking techniques, and you’ll want to use your front brakes gingerly when traction is iffy. Locking up the fronts can easily cause you to lose control of your bike, while locking up the rear is much more likely to be inconsequential. The possibility of sliding either end of your bike will be greatly dependent on the traction conditions beneath your tires.

Enter areas where oil spills are likely with caution; these high-risk areas include intersections and parking lots. Drag your rear brake where you suspect slick surfaces, and you’ll have a backup plan in case you start to feel the front tires slide. It takes quick reflexes, so stay on your guard and remember that it’s much easier to recover from a rear wheel lockup than it is a front slide.

Those rules get taken to another level when it comes to riding offroad, as dirt bike riding almost never involves the front brakes. If you plan on hitting trails, make it a habit to keep your hand off the front brake lever, or else you might have to get used to tasting dirt more often than you need to.

How about linked brakes?
Many scooters, touring bikes, cruisers, and even sport bikes are equipped with linked brakes, which are designed to actuate both front and rear brakes through a single lever. Some systems are only rear-to-front linked, while others work both ways, but the goal is the same both: remove some of the guesswork involved with choosing between front and rear brakes. While a majority of riders can’t produce stopping distances as short as those created by linked braking systems, this feature isn’t always popular among some performance-oriented enthusiasts.

What about ABS?
ABS, short for anti-lock braking systems, is designed to detect tire slip and “pulse” the brakes so they don’t skid. The system allows the rider to apply full effort at the hand or brake levers without worrying about locking up the tires, but ABS isn’t effective when a bike is leaned over.

Though it’s difficult to match the stopping distance of an ABS-equipped bike in wet or compromised traction situations, not all riders are enthusiastic about computerized brake intervention. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration is considering making ABS mandatory on motorcycles, but both sides of the debate can be quelled when manufacturers equip ABS bikes with a switch that can turn the system on and off.


SHARE


PIN

Related
How Not to Crash a Motorcycle
Five Things not to do When Braking on a Motorcycle
First Time Riders on Classic Motorcycles
Motorcycle Riding in Cold and Wet Weather
More from the Web
幸福很簡單~自我感覺超級良好!
這種基本的根據 , 就不用查文再貼上來給大家看了....

還需要查到英文的去....
  • 3
內文搜尋
X
評分
評分
複製連結
Mobile01提醒您
您目前瀏覽的是行動版網頁
是否切換到電腦版網頁呢?