Ronza wrote:
那請你把通知，或是任...(恕刪)
就像您說的，車界是很黑暗的!
您認為意美會用書面來承認車子的問題點？
這件事情也是！
如果承認了這個事實，不是就給了車主以後引擎出問題一個求償的理由嗎？
頂多書面用上“疑似“；“可能“...等字眼!
如果是用“疑似“或“可能“等字來描述的書面資料，
那去年11月就發過了!
就連去年10月我去展間看車時問業代這個問題，
也是說，原廠說那是油質的問題產生“爆震“，程式修改一下就好了!
看來下次去看車要帶錄音筆去了!
flooor wrote:
我有去更新，也有不少...(恕刪)
請問有工單可以索取嗎？
內容有寫更新那些項目嗎？
謝謝!
psc63 wrote:
就像您說的，車界是很...(恕刪)
寫這些是希望多少能幫到一些車友，畢竟不是每個人都閒閒有時間去研究這些東西...
之所以說原廠是否有通報，是因為之前美規08'STI就出過一次包:
SOA has initiated a Service Program (WVE-15) to reprogram the Engine Control Module (ECM)
on certain 2008MY Impreza WRX STI vehicles.
Under certain harsh driving patterns, specifically when repeatedly or continuously operating the
engine above the “red-line” (RPM above 6,700), abnormal combustion could occur resulting in
serious internal engine damage in the form of broken piston ring lands. This abnormal
combustion condition is the result of an “over lean” fuel mixture caused by a combination of fuel
cut activation and high turbo boost. To prevent this condition from occurring, Subaru has
developed a modification to the Engine Control Module software logic that will improve
combustion management above “red-line” engine speed. This revised logic will not adversely
affect peak vehicle performance.
General information concerning this Service Program:
• The WVE-15 Service Program Bulletin will be posted on the Techinfo.Subaru.com
website on Thursday, August 14th. The Campaign Bulletin contains additional information
concerning identification of affected vehicles, repair and claim submission procedures.
• On or around August 14, 2008, dealers will be sent affected VIN lists by their Area
Service Office. Dealers are requested to immediately perform this campaign on all
affected vehicles in dealer inventory. Important: Some vehicles that appear on dealer
affected VIN lists may have already been updated by Subaru. Prior to performing
repairs, confirm coverage by using the Vehicle Coverage Inquiry in the Dealer
Communication System (DCS). Vehicles that have been updated by Subaru will
appear "completed" in DCS.
• CDS control numbers for this Service Program are currently available through DCS.
• Subaru will mail owner notification letters on or around August 15, 2008.
Reprogramming software:
The July 2008 SSMIII Software update was released by SOA on August 12, 2008 and contains
the reprogramming pack file needed to complete this Service Program.
Upgrade Version Numbers
• Software: 1.15.33.3
• Interface Box: 1.6.0
• Interface Box CF Card: 1.2.35
Pack File
22611AN351.pak. - 2008MY Impreza STI, ECM To prevent the abnormal combustion during fuel
cut and recovery condition by rev. limiter
Thank you for your cooperation in this matter.
Subaru of America, Inc
SOA發了一個技術通報WVE-15 去改正ECU程式在轉速紅線斷油時突然的稀薄燃燒導致爆震，
而使得活塞損壞。
如果原廠真的因為ECU程式導致嚴重爆震，那一定很快會出這類通報，因為ECU修正的成本遠比
車輛因爆震而損壞出保固的成本低太多了。
當然有異音，不管是CVT,或是排氣衝擊異音，都是需要解決的，但要是走錯方向而自尋煩惱
實在沒有意義。
在沒有任何技術通告的情形下我很懷疑原廠會去幫各位更新程式，也懷疑這真的是原廠的作法嗎?...
我的車當年在SOT直營的時代也發過一次recall,要回去檢查後煞車的油封是否正常，SOT當年這麼
鳥的服務下，都還發了正式的信函通知車主，若是爆震到需要修正我是不相信沒有正式的做法...
我個人是懷疑意美被車主盧到煩了，然後又無法有效找出異音的根源，就先用這種說法來試試了...
其實對於有在玩ECU的，要檢查是否有爆震輕而易舉，插電腦路試一趟就知道了，ECUTEK已經公布
正式支援forester SJ, 到時去給大庭測試一下，就不用再瞎猜引擎有問題在那邊擔心受怕。
flooor wrote:
軟體從081更新為0...(恕刪)
大家都很關係這個問題, 到底是震爆還是別的甚麼的其實都不重要,將一大堆理論也是,相信車主目前的心情, 是怎麼決解問題..
又做了一下research 發現國外車主把這個問題歸納成 intermittent loss of power, rattling engine noises & black smoke. (間歇性失去動力, 發動機"咯咯"作響, 以及排出黑色尾氣). 這些情況在各國的subaru車主身上都發生了... 也證明了車子可能真的在某些部分有問題..而不是只是在台灣出現 被某些網友說成 台灣車主的多慮. 參照 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/loss-power-clink-314386/
不過國外車主也都自發處理問題, 目前主要的處理方式還是在我一開始說的3各氣閥上面. 很多車主都證實了鎖緊氣閥, 問題也相繼消失了! 國外廠商也證實會有新的軟體升級來改善.
In our situation it is caused by one or more loose clamps between the air filter case & the throttlebody & running too high an octane fuel (for example 98 RON). The four clamps between the Turbo outlet boost pipe, TMIC & the throttlebody are poor quality clamps & are being replaced by some owners with better quality clamps. There is also a software update due to be released soon.
關於氣閥的位置網友解釋為- 一個在引擎蓋的塑膠板下面. 一個在渦輪旁邊,必須解開下面的擋泥板(只需要幾個螺絲)
The top clamp is right under the plastic engine cover. There are two pop-clips to remove at the back then it pulls right off.
The bottom one, by the turbo, is harder to get at as the skid plate has to be removed, but that's just a few bolts holding it on.
下面提供英文版的維修流程, 由於太長看不懂的朋友自己 google trans 吧 同時車主也被建議更換這些"螺絲"(不知道叫甚麼) 圖
"The Danoz fix"
This is a summary of the previous thread including instructions for the clamp fix for the FA20DIT powered MY13 MY14 Forester XT. The instructions may also apply to the MY15 WRX but this is yet to be confirmed. Subaru Australia will not replace these clamps for you so you must do this yourself or get a qualified mechanic to follow these instructions. I am not aware if this will void your warranty so you should check that before proceeding. I refuse to be held resposible for any damage done to your car, if you dont feel confident, simple dont do it. What I am sure of is that should you choose to drive the car around in its current state with all of the severe pinging and and overboosting issues, you WILL shorten the life of the motor through detonation damage or the engine running too lean as a result of unmetered air entering the induction system.
The engine suffers from more than one fault that needs to be rectified. Most notably, the extremely poor quality of clamps used on the boost piping. These clamps are so sub-standard that if you went to Bunnings or Masters and bought their worst clamp intended for household plumbing, it would still be better than the ones used on our engines, and that is not an exaggeration. From the factory these clamps are loose and their quality prevents a proper air tight seal. The factory clamps have also been known to fail completely after one tightening attempt. The new clamps also have a "liner" which provides a smooth even clamping surface which prevents damage to the material is gripping onto.
Left: Replacement clamp Right: Subaru clamp
Note shape and material difference.
All of these instructions need to be fully applied ALL at once for the fix to work. There is no point filling up on 95 Octane and putting two clamps on your car and saying it doest work. It will NOT work under those circumstances guaranteed. The clamps have been selected specifically for their ability to remain in their tightened state without the risk of them undoing, or in worst case, failing completely. Another brand or style of clamps will not necessarily hold so do not even try to substitute. I have tested the above very extensively and put a lot of time and research into selecting something appropriate for our application. They are also the same size and band width as the factory clamps so they will definitely fit. So here goes...
Preparation: Your car should be low on fuel and then refilled with 95 Octane fuel of any brand. NOT 98. This step may be redundant with the latest software update from Subaru, but this is yet to be confirmed.
1) Remove negative battery terminal and proceed. These 5 clamps need to be replaced with the specified clamps and tightened to a firm fit, and once the engine has warmed to operation temperature re-tightened. The clamps should not be overtightened or it will cause the rubber boots or insulators to "wrinkle" and cause leaks.
* Turbo intake
* Intercooler inlet
* Intercooler outlet
* Throttle body
* Bypass valve
Caution- Work carefully around the intercooler, it is quite fragile and the heat dissipating fins are quite easily damaged. This will rob you of power if the damage is excessive.
2) Tighten all three clamps after the airflow meter and before the turbo. There are three, do not skip any. These clamps are of a different manufacturer that the other five and they will hold if tightened. These clamps should be firm-tight. Also before tightening ensure that the induction piping is located correctly. i.e the rubber boots have a small keyway in them and they must be pushed up into this keyway and then the clamps tightened. ALL THREE!
3) Reset ECU using the following procedure.
*Replace negative battery terminal.
* Turn the ignition key so the indicator lights show and the dial sweep occurs. DO NOT START THE CAR. leave the key in this position.
* Wait at least 10 seconds, preferably 20 seconds for the ECU to complete its throttle learning proceedure. There will be a number of clicks and whirls from the engine, this is normal.
* After 20 seconds start the car with all accessories off and allow engine to idle for one minute.
* ECU reset is complete. When driving, the car will feel funny and a little bit sluggish after the reset, this is normal, as the ECU is learning its new fuel trims wastegate settings and transmission behaviors. After half a tank of fuel, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at your "new" car. After the reset you will also need to perform the drivers power window calibration and set your clocks/date again. This is covered in your Subaru owners manual.
4) Double check your work and replace engine covers/bottom bash plate and clips, check clamp tightness, check tightness again when engine is at operating temperature.
TESTING YOUR WORK.
Warm your car up to operating temperature (oil temp above 80 Deg C) and drive normally, with a few squirts of mid throttle and full throttle. OBEY THE ROAD RULES AND SPEED LIMITS!
Set your multi function display to show oil temp and boost. Find a long uphill grade, the steeper and longer the better and shift the car into manual mode so that you will be using paddle shift. Accelerate slowly and shift into third while the engine sits at about 2k to 3k RPM and floor it while at the same time monitoring your boost pressure. It will rise rapidly and may overshoot the desired 1.1bar consistant pressure. This is normal while the car adjusts to its new airflow characteristics and establishes a suitable wastegate setting. Once things have settled down the boost should sit at a very steady 1.0bar to 1.2 bar. If it fluctuating, you still have a leak and need to check the positioning and tightness of the newly installed clamps. Also important is to keep an eye on your RPM and shift up when necessary. All we are trying to see is if the turbo will maintain its max boost. 1.1 bar is the magic figure, 0.9 or less means you have a leak, 1.4bar also means you have a leak. Fluctuating boost = leak.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If your car rattles, hesitates or suffers inconsistant acceleration the clamps are still not installed correctly. We can narrow down the areas to inspect as follows.
1) Pinging (rattle) accompanied WITH smoke from exhaust, sudden loss of power with the onset of boost. Check the clamps and piping after the turbo. (The ones you just installed)
2) Pinging or rattle with now smoke and a sudden loss of power with the onset of boost WITHOUT smoke from the exhaust. Check all piping and clamps before the turbo and after the airflow meter. (the ones you just tightened but didn't replace)
If a pinging or rattling episode has occurred you need to check those specified areas AND perform an ECU reset procedure.
As previously mentioned, it takes up to half a tank of fuel for the car to be performing as it should so be patient. Don't be gentle, give it some stick, and most importantly ENJOY! Once you have it right you will know, because the car will pull strongly and never hesitate, ping or rattle. (not even a little bit)
From now on until I get more info on the software update, ONLY USE 95 Octane fuel and you will not have any problems.
I will periodically update this thread with clamp availability and pricing.
All the best guys. :)
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