http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/sram-etap-vs-di2-which-is-better-211408
Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 still sets the gold standard when it comes to electronic shifting.
SRAM has acknowledged the rear derailleur's slow shift speed, saying that the decision was made to slow down the shifting speed in an effort to prolong battery life.
With all of the non-electronic parts(i.e. the chainset, cassette, chain, brake calipers, and bottom bracket), Red eTap is more than 150g lighter than Shimano Dura-Ace Di2.
按 : 還沒有講中死穴, eTap前後同步轉檔的滯後速度...........
MrHaematocrit 神回 : "Wireless makes a difference once, when the bike is being built. Shift performance & quality makes a difference every time. Wireless seems to be a lot of hype to me, unless there are other advantages I'm missing."
yuettoi wrote:After more time with eTap I have these tips:
轉貼外國用家的心得吧...(恕刪)
-If going from big/big to small ring and smaller it definitely helps to push the left lever first and then right one shortly thereafter. It almost seems that the order that you press/hold both to do the simultaneous shift changes the shift speed. I could be imagining things here, but that's my feedback.
-In going from small ring to big ring I'd press the left lever first and then the right shortly thereafter.
-Both of these techniques seem to be faster or smoother than pressing both levers at once and then holding one down for the rear der. Not sure why or if its just me making things up, but it helps.
-I was doing some big ring, low cadence efforts and had to shift both up to a bigger cog and down to a lower cog under high load. If shift speed would be an issue it would be here as cadence would be low enough that they delay in rotation combined with a supposedly slower shift speed would definitely jam things up, but it didn't. It actually seemed smoother than my 9000 did especially going into a bigger cog.
-If you care about this dialing the lever reach in a bit helps braking and shifting at once, but only if you change your technique a tad. Instead of trying to brake with your middle finger and shift with your index, do the opposite. The paddle sits slightly lower than di2 and if the reach is dialed in a tad you have enough of a "grip" on the lever to get full braking power when in the drops or tops.
-So far I've charged the batteries once and ridden it for 15hrs. I also left the batteries on on accident when driving 4.5 hrs to and from somewhere. No issues yet with them being close to end of life.
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