我的W210 E200K(2001, 218,000km)新車至今除了換水箱精外, 基本上是從來不須補充水箱水的. 這幾個星期以來我發現我的水箱冷卻水會不定期減少, 最近一次甚至已經到了一星期須要補充一次, 很明顯冷卻水已經會漏了. 打開引擎蓋肉眼檢查, 除了看到車底及底盤護蓋有水痕外, 其它水管, 水箱等都看不到有漏水的痕跡. 週末有空上Benzworld搜尋看看, 發現水幫浦(water pump)漏水似乎佔了一半的可能. 由於幾年前還常上Benzworld, 根據國外網友的經驗之前就已將water pump列為未來可能要換的耗材, 現在車子也開了近22萬公里, 剛好趁今天星期天閒賦在家, 也應該是時候來檢察這項零件了.
由於水幫浦之前沒換過, 因此稍微看了一下網路上類似車款DIY的方式, 看起來似乎不太難, 所以就開始拆相關皮帶及水幫浦的舵輪. 待水幫浦舵輪一拆下, 就發現舵輪內緣已經有一灘水積在那裡. 水幫浦外表也有不少水箱精殘留的水痕(之前被水幫浦舵輪擋住看不見), 看起來應該是找到問題了. 由於週日材料行沒營業, 只好將零件先裝回, 等過幾天有空再來買水幫浦及原廠水箱精修復.
倒是有一點不解, 這水似乎是從水幫浦軸承處流出, 而非水幫浦和引擎本體之間的墊片, 不知道有沒有人只換軸承相關墊片就可以? 不過如果我發現新品轉動的聲音如果比舊品安靜許多, 也許軸承也已經有異音了, 既然雅拍上M111的水幫浦原廠的也才賣3000多, 我應該還是會換新的水幫浦比較省事吧. 如果網友有相關經驗, 還請不吝指教. 謝謝.
其實水幫浦用久了, 我相信軸承多少也有磨損, 看來還是整個換掉比較省事...
To Sah大大,
其實有空喜歡研究保養車子是年輕到現在的興趣, 但興趣這種東西有時候還真費事, 明明知道投資報酬率不高, 但一有空檔又會手癢, 有時候還真怕正事被耽誤了, 因此現在都儘量不花時間研究車子, 非到必要再花時間.
PUMP FAILURE
There are three problems that can lead to failure of the water pump: seal failure, worn bearings, and, In rare cases, Impeller breakage or slippage.
Seal Failure
This is the most common malfunction. Seal failure makes itself known when coolant trickles down from the pump's bleed hole, which is located on the underside of the pump housing. Inspecting the bleed hole might require using a small mirror or getting underneath the car. The bleed hole is important because it allows coolant to run out of the engine before it can contaminate the shaft bearings.
Worn Bearings
A loud, shrill noise is one sign of worn shaft bearings. Excess play in the shaft is another indication that a problem exists. To check for excess play, remove the fan belt (as explained later in this booklet), then firmly grasp the fan and try to move it vertically and horizontally. Excessive shaft movement of 1/4" or more will eventually damage the seals.
NOTE: It is difficult to perform this test on cars with freewheeling fans because the viscous unit has so much built-in movement.
Impeller Breakage/Slippage
This failure is the rarest of the three and is usually preceded by one of the other two. An impeller that is damaged or slipping on the shaft will not pump enough coolant through the system. Checking the impeller requires removing the pump and visually examining it. In some cases, a cover must also be removed.
When a water pump fails, replace it with either a new or factory rebuilt unit. (Frequently, a rebuilt pump Is only half the cost of a new one and will last just as long.) Do not try to rebuild the old pump. Although many service manuals give detailed water pump overhaul procedures, it is a job better left to the professional. During the manufacturing process, special procedures are used to install the pump shaft seal so that it will not leak; these procedures would be hard for the amateur mechanic to duplicate.
NOTE: Always wear safety glasses or goggles when doing any work on a running engine or around a hot radiator
I'm very impressed of what you did on your car, wondering if you could share the website which you collect so many information about MB. Thanks for your sharing.
yougerlai wrote:
Jonathan:I...(恕刪)
I do visit lots of MB related websites in the past, however the most frequest website I visit now is benzworld only (www.benzworld.org). I suggest you join the member (free) and search the forum you are interested, you will find much valuable information you need. I am sorry I don't collect all of the information systemmatically, sometimes I just searh by key word in the browser only.
施工前要等引擎冷卻, 以免燙到手, 同時引擎還在高溫就漏掉冷卻水, 難免傷了車子.
這是原本的水幫浦, 白色乾掉的水痕到處可見, 但就是看不出哪裡有問題.
先不拆皮帶, 直接使用10mm套筒鬆開水幫浦前的普利盤螺絲, 但就是鬆個1~2圈就好不要拿下, 以免皮帶會將普利盤拉歪.
用星形螺絲套筒鬆開皮帶 (E10)
鬆開普利盤的螺絲, 拿下普利盤, 此時會看到盤內緣積水.
藉著普利盤和引擎本體的螺絲還固定住, 先拆水管的束帶並鬆水管, 水管可以邊轉邊拉, 應該還蠻好拆. 拉開水管的瞬間冷卻水就會噴出, 這時如果是滾水就會燙到手.
接下來是鬆開水幫浦上的星形螺絲, 總共有兩種尺寸(好像是E8, E10), 我是用兩種延伸的套筒, 雖然不是那麼好用, 但5分鐘還是可以全部鬆開. 由於我沒有事先查扭力值, 家中也沒有扭力板手, 因此這時特別注意螺絲的鬆緊度, 以免鎖回去時鎖太緊. 拆下的螺絲大小尺寸各有不同, 所以要按照順序先插入新的水幫浦, 以免弄錯位置.
拆下後就舊品和新品的比較, 培林部分舊品已有一些異音, 新品則完全沒有異音. 這是新品的洩水口, 冷卻水就是從這裡漏出的, 上面的原文已有說明原因. 新品還有附帶一片墊片, 我是沒有再額外上膠.
這是卸下水幫浦後的樣子.
先將水幫浦附著在引擎接觸面清潔後, 確認三條水管都還可以用, 開始裝回水幫浦. 將墊片和水幫浦先對好螺絲孔, 同時插入一支螺絲並稍微鎖在引擎本體上. 為了便於施工, 我是先將水管大約接上水幫浦再來鎖其他的螺絲. 然後依序將螺絲鎖上, 最後固定好水管並鎖上套環. 這裡還是要強調鎖引擎相關的螺絲的扭力值很重要, 原因有二: 一是這種螺絲有些可以長到約7公分, 太用力鎖可能會將螺絲鎖斷, 斷掉的螺絲留在引擎本體事情就大條了. 二是現在的引擎本體都是鋁合金的, 扭力不對可能會傷到引擎本體.
接下來就是裝回水管並鎖緊束帶, 裝回普利盤螺絲稍微鎖緊, 裝回皮帶, 再將普利盤螺絲鎖緊. 添加兩罐原廠水箱精, 其餘的用蒸餾水加滿(逆滲透應該也Ok, 但我承認其實我偷懶只是用家裡過濾過的水而已...), 稍微測試後沒有注意到有漏水, 基本上算完工了, 這幾天再注意有沒有缺水漏水的跡象.
整體施工約花1小時, 其中半小時是和社區內的鄰居聊天(你知道的賓士車主周末自己換水幫浦, 一定會引來大家的好奇), 花費就是2500元的零件成本加600元的原廠水箱精. 更換水幫浦難度不算高, 疲勞度(這對我這個中年人來說很重要)也不高, 所以今早起床我還可以坐在這裡打字而沒有腰酸背痛. 在此留個記錄讓有興趣的人參考.
PS: 特別感謝小兒子全程幫忙拿工具及照相, 否則滿手油汙就沒法照相了(雖然還是照糊了一張).
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