fujen1221 wrote:
我真是不明白,怎麼會混淆之後不聽說明,就一直要想盡辦法硬坳!...(恕刪)
馬步沒學好（甚至是亂學，比沒學還糟），您覺得打出來的拳能看嗎？
這讓我想到之前有一篇也是拿自己的「想法」來討論色溫，雖然內容不同、手法各異，但是整體感覺很相似。
fujen1221 wrote:
"沒有測光功能,或測...(恕刪)
引用165樓及回應159樓
當然可以
手動決定光圈快門值當然可以稱為M模式
不管是用測光錶晴天16相機內建測光錶或自創陰天11法則來決定
但反之則不可以
M模式不是以晴天16法則手動決定光圈快門值
白馬是馬黑馬也是馬
馬則不知是黑是白
個人用D80接Ais手動鏡非用M模式不可
開機第一件事調ISO值再來WB自訂
粗估決定光圈快門值(考慮安全快門及最大光圈縮2-3格等等)
拍1張看LCD調整光圈快門或ISO值WB自訂微調
再拍1張不行WB選擇色溫
再拍1張主題WB曝光OK同場景不再變動
數張後偶會調整光圈(為了景深)但快門或ISO值連同調整
試試M模式吧
陽光變動通常不太大(多雲晨昏不適用)
haytt wrote:
都行啦，總之攝影術，各種方式都行，只要自己習慣，沒什麼對錯，因為最終的影像會告訴你結果，這樣拍對嗎？還有更好的方法嗎？
路人甲的善意提醒：把人家打到撲街沒必要吧！重點在攝影技術交流比較OK啦。
首先感謝資訊提供
紅字部分我也認同，沒啥問題
但是既然是要以知識傳遞的用意發文章，就必須嚴謹一點
當然，這些都是可以討論的
藍字的部分：
路人丙的好奇發問：有誰想把誰打到仆街嗎？
一直都是在釐清觀念啊！我是Hiroyuki
比爾蓋飯 wrote:
這篇文章剛發文第一頁...(恕刪)
我有份吵架, 就有必要說明.
首先, 我個人是籠統針對: M模式有好到那麼跩的地步嗎? 來回應,
不過當然是我個人有些離題了, 但我的反駁中有一點是確實的:
16法則和M模式是兩件不相干的事.
所以也才有一些網友質疑若真測出F16, iso 100, 1/100s, 不管用ASM模式設定光圈和快門都是得出一樣的快門和光圈組合,
所以和用M無關.
當然, 越到後面越多觀念正確的大大都出來指正了.
可是樓主卻不願正面和大家討論, 不是說人家吐口水就是說觀念狹隘,
我想這些都是在討論和爭論的同時,
又火上加油的不好態度.
你要分享,
固然可以,
但有人質疑或討論甚至爭論時,
為什麼不能大家講通呢?
這是實際的學理和技術面, 討論一定有個底,
不像道德議題, 純粹只能吵沒有底.
我不是要和蓋飯大大吵,
我想, 在快速瀏覽的過程中,
有時很容易被較情緒性的字眼所吸引而加強印象,
但若大大看到吵架外的實際內容,
或許你會發現其實這樣的爭論也理清了不少觀念.
我現在很冷靜喔~
FB:facebook.com/photographyeye
辯論講求的是立論根據與小心求證，而不是穿鑿附會或信口雌黃，以下是找到的資料，其中對於18%灰與各家原廠內建測光表的設定調整與遵循標準有詳細描述，
有趣的是，這次收集資料竟然發現，這個老外竟然說Canon, Nikon 與 Sekonic 測光表較為匹配，而 Kenko 則與 Pentax 較為匹配。如果要混用，兩者之間大約差1/6 EV。至於內建測光表準不准，呵呵，自行理解，本人怕誤導人家，所以不予置喙。
至於需要改採12%或其他%的灰卡來測定嗎？答案是你仍舊可以用18%灰卡，但似乎必須往上調半階。
以下僅供參考：
But first, let me state that the 18% myth is so ingrained in the photography world that virtually everyone just parrots the party line. This includes Nikon USA, who will tell you that their camera meters are calibrated to 18% gray (talk to the Nikon Japan camera engineers, and you get a different story, as they'll respond "yes" when you ask if the Nikon meters are calibrated to ANSI standards; and yes, I had the chance to ask them a few years ago when I was in Japan).
Light meters are calibrated at the factory using ANSI standards. The standard has always been for a luminance value that is roughly equivalent to the reflectance of 12% gray. (Notice I used the words "luminance" and "reflectance." Luminance refers to a certain amount of light energy that is measured directly, while reflectance refers to light as it is seen after bouncing off an object. There is a subtle, but important difference.)
It appears that the 18% gray value comes from the print world. On printed material, it's claimed that the half way point between black and white reflects 18% of the light. So a neutral gray (not whitish or blackish) is 18% gray. It very well may be that Kodak continues to market 18% gray cards because it is easy to produce and monitor this reflectance in production. (Or it may be that it's unclear what the companies producing meters are really doing. It doesn't help that the "technical" information from many of the companies involved in meter production contains contradictory information. For example, Sekonic's web page mentions 14% and claims Minolta uses a higher setting, while Minolta's English pages claim yet a different value.)
ANSI standards (which, unfortunately, are not publically published--you have to pay big bucks to have access to them), calibrate meters using luminance, not reflection. For an ANSI calibrated meter, the most commonly published information I've seen is that the luminance value used translates into a reflectance of 12%. I've also seen 12.5% and 13% (so where the heck does Sekonic's 14% come from?), but 12% seems to be correct--one half stop lighter than 18%, by the way. I haven't seen anyone claim that ANSI calibration translates into a reflectance of 18%.
ISO 2720:1974 recommends a range for K of 10.6 to 13.4 with luminance in cd/m². Two values for K are in common use: 12.5 (Canon, Nikon, and Sekonic[1]) and 14 (Kenko[2] and Pentax); the difference between the two values is approximately 1/6 EV.
ISO 2720:1974 calls for reflected-light calibration to be measured by aiming the receptor at a transilluminated diffuse surface, and for incident-light calibration to be measured by aiming the receptor at a point source in a darkened room. For a perfectly diffusing test card and perfectly diffusing flat receptor, the comparison between a reflected-light measurement and an incident-light measurement is valid for any position of the light source. However, the response of a hemispherical receptor to an off-axis light source is approximately that of a cardioid rather than a cosine, so the 12% “reflectance” determined for an incident-light meter with a hemispherical receptor is valid only when the light source is on the receptor axis.
[edit]Cameras with internal meters
Calibration of cameras with internal meters is covered by ISO 2721:1982; nonetheless, many manufacturers specify (though seldom state) exposure calibration in terms of K, and many calibration instruments (e.g., Kyoritsu-Arrowin multi-function camera testers[4] ) use the specified K to set the test parameters.
So, there are two questions that need to be asked (and of engineers at Nikon that would know of what we speak, not the Nikon USA folk who read translated documentation and learned from the same Photography 101 books we did):
1) Does Nikon calibrate its meters to ANSI standards? (My previous conversations with Nikon engineers leads me to believe the answer is yes.)
2)Would you need a 12% gray card to get the correct exposure using an ANSI calibrated meter (i.e., is the luminance setting for ANSI really equivalent to 12% reflectance?)? (I believe the answer is again yes, but we can make do with 18% gray cards. Simply take a reading with the card angled between the lens axis and light source, then open up 1/2 stop.)
我韃韃的馬蹄 是美麗的錯誤 我 不是歸人 只是個過客
什麼模式又怎樣? 樓主要寫什麼模式，是他的自由，覺得不認同的人可以自己再寫一篇<XX心得>X模式的入門磚---XXXXX法則，X自己填阿，寫得出來、說得有理我也會去拍拍手幫加分。
樓主發的這篇文章，整棟就一推人在那個模式習慣那邊做文章，別的品牌我不知道啦，這棟大樓很多是N家的啦，就Nikon來說一堆相機都是接自家老鏡後只能再M模式下運作，哪來得測光阿，或者更多其他品牌老相機都是沒測光也沒有自動模式，對那些人的也很實用。
何必那麼主觀，一遇到M模式就開是批，愛用什麼模式選擇什麼模式都是個人自由。01的同胞難道不能容忍其他人習慣用和自己不同的模式嗎?
可能01大多數的人都拿D300以上等級，所以任何模式任何鏡頭都可以使用，可是不要忘記，DSLR的銷售量是金字塔，真正很多數在默默再看文章的人或者根本只是新手拿入門機款的使用者，這些機種本來接上老鏡後只能M模式去猜測光，對於這種使用者，這篇文章不但好而且也寫的深入淺出，樓主分享他在M模式使用心得和讀書得到觀念互相映證底哪裡錯了? 什麼叫做不能批，批了要有雅量，這篇在開戰的人才是真正沒有雅量的人。
樓主做錯的只有一件事啦，就是上來分享，然後讓一堆拿高階機的人酸。再說一次，我要是樓主，我肯定不會再分享。 01可以繼續這樣，更多有知識的人就越不願意分享。
要炮的繼續啦，反正好好的一篇分享早就被意識心態之爭都搞臭了。
引用
葉小瞇 wrote:
的確看了一些攝影書後
才發現有介紹這個的真的是少之又少
這篇很棒...(恕刪)
褲撕啦 wrote:
用M模式的人躺著也中槍 = = 我M模式用習慣了可以嗎?M模式惹到你?我幾乎所有照片都用M模式惹到你?你要砲就去砲那些人!不要來砲好心分享好文的人好嗎?...
andych wrote:
看完一堆回文,我也忍不住要回一下
其實不管是P,A,S,M模式,他的測光系統都是相機內建的那一個,所以並沒有任何好壞之分
那差在哪?
差在操作方式不同,就是習慣問題而已..(恕刪)
huntersu wrote:
插話一下
以我這個準備入門的好幾個門外的門外漢來看. 每一篇討論的文章都值得我好好看個幾遍. 也相信每一種存在的功能都有其優點...(恕刪)
riklin wrote:
ASTPM各種模式都能拍照也沒有誰比較強....沒必要看到M就看到仇人一樣.....只是拍照而已。......(恕刪)
Clement0314 wrote:
讓習慣去挑模式，或是為了多一點方便性而去更改習慣
PASM，都不錯啦^^"
學習好測光才是真的...(恕刪)
echoesvet wrote:
我想這篇文章從到尾因該沒有人在堅持Ｍ模式很神,但是很多人需要它,也常用它是真的,很多場合M模式沒辦法被取代。
你學的知識基本上是沒什麼錯誤的地方,但因為領域不同,你也許不能馬上理解別人的想法,相信你遲早會了解為甚麼有些人的講的東西,看似挑戰權威,但確實有他的道理存在,人們對不了解的事物,容易一開始內心會有所排斥。...(恕刪)
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