https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=695842907149112&set=a.280561898677217.66024.264181933648547&type=1&theater
同時E-M1也有新韌體.
The E-M1 update improves AF response for Four Thirds lenses, improves C-AF performance for group targeting, and lets you utilize new Olympus Image Share functions such as Remote Release.
E-M10其實也有輕微的快門震動. 個人的測試和使用感覺是影響最嚴重的是9-18這顆鏡頭, 某些快門拍攝100%放大看影像會有些微的晃動感. 其它相對較長的焦段鏡頭100%放大來看比較像是銳利度和細節上的差異. 個人所擁有的鏡頭中最明顯的是17 1.8.幾乎都要用比1/320s快或比1/50s慢的快門才能得到滿意的畫面. 其次是45 1.8, 比1/125s 慢的快門拍攝失敗率相當高.
如今Olympus願意也給E-M10 0秒防震功能實在太令人感動啦. 唯一的遺憾是0秒防震無法連拍. 希望O家後續能夠解放連拍功能.
個人在網路查尋的結果發現, 好像只要是機械快門的相機都有快門震動的問題.
以下連結中的測試發現E-M1 用0秒防震加上快門釋放時滯設定成短是最佳方案. 缺點是快門釋放時滯設定成短會非常耗電.
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3651827
Fu shih wrote:
我沒有O家的相機、不...(恕刪)
Fu shih 大
O家的0秒防震是指:
快門速度為1/320 及以下時, 快門前簾從機械式切換為電子式, 以減少快門衝擊導致的模糊.
因為O家把這功能做在快門延遲防震選項裡(就是按下快門後幾杪才拍攝的防震功能), 選項為0秒. 所以大家習慣叫它0秒防震.
據我的了解, C,S和P家等也是用電子式快門前簾的技術來解決快門震動的問題.
比較耗電是指另一項功能:快門釋放時滯.
請看以下原廠說明書上的解釋.
快門釋放時滯 如果選擇[短]，便可以縮短全按快門按紐與拍攝相片之間的時
滯。* —
* 這樣會縮短電池壽命。而且要確認使用時照相機不會受到強烈的撞擊。這種撞擊可能會使
得顯示屏停止顯示被攝對象。如果發生這種情況，請關閉電源並重新開啟。
lightear wrote:
請問"快門延遲"和"...(恕刪)
關於這兩個設定，說明書的說明完全語焉不詳。
這個網站的說明清楚多了：
http://www.biofos.com/mft/omd_em1_settings.html
翻譯簡化節錄如下：
快門防震(Anti-Shock)，就是單反(SLR,DSLR)鎖定反光鏡的功能，
單反按快門時，反光鏡彈跳的震動可能影響成像結果，所以有時候要鎖定反光鏡，避免震動。
M43相機沒有反光鏡，但是快門簾開關還是有可能發生震動，這功能可鎖住快門組件，減少震動。
設定值：OFF, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30。
E-M1(v1.3), E-P5(v1.4), E-M10(v1.1)韌體升級後，
增加'0秒'設定：快門速度低於1/320以下，增設電子快門。
(除了電子快門以外，其他秒數設定，我也不太懂到底鎖住哪裡?)
大概是：前簾開 -> 鎖定秒數等快門震完 -> 然後CMOS擷取影像 -> 後簾關。
但是，鎖定秒數時，快門組件不震，手也會震啊！除非上腳架。
--------------------------------------------------------------------
快門釋放遲滯："按下快門後"到"快門真正動作"的時間差
設定值：正常，短
設定遲滯為正常時，啟動正常"機械"快門。延遲0.054秒。
設定遲滯為短時，有可能啟動"電磁"快門。延遲0.044秒。
"電磁"快門比較耗電，所以電池消耗快速，相機也可能會過熱，萬一相機劇烈震動時，畫面會消失。
-------------------------------------------------------------------
原文如下：
(節錄自 http://www.biofos.com/mft/omd_em1_settings.html#SECTION4)
4e (xiii) ANTI-SHOCK: (Legacy term - Mirror Lock/Mirror Up) Off, 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30 seconds.
In the old SLR days, mechanical cameras were fitted with a device that turned and locked the mirror in its uppermost position and effectively removed the mirror flip (ker-plunk) out of the exposure equation. Initially this was to facilitate the projection of the rear element into the exposure box. But stopping the mirror from flapping about was good for imaging as it removed a lot of vibration from the camera body, and so benefited (sharpened) the exposure. Its downside was you couldn't see anything through the optical VF!
With DSLR cameras the same principle applies, it's just achieved differently. An additional delay is built into the exposure process that holds the mirror in the up position before allowing the shutter to open/close. It is this delay that's called ANTI-SHOCK. When you set anti-shock from 1 to 30 seconds this determines how long the mirror stays up before the shutter is fired. This allows the vibrations caused by the mirror flapping about to subside before the shutter fires. Normally a setting of 5 seconds will allow all vibrations to pass.
The E-M1 is a mirrorless camera so what's going on? Well there are still vibrations and movements at work from the shutter press to the shutter actually firing so the principle still applies even though there's no mirror it just works slightly differently.
OBSERVATIONS: Default setting is OFF. Leave at default until you need anti-shock and remember to disengage it when done or you will wonder what has gone wrong with your camera next time you come to use it!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
4c (viii) RELEASE LAG-TIME: Normal, Short.
This setting controls the amount of time between the shutter button being pressed and the shutter actually releasing (shutter lag).
NOTE: 08/12/13 It seems that when set to SHORT a different mechanism for holding the shutter is employed which is probably an electro-magnet rather than a mechanical mechanism. This reduces shutter lag by 20% but increases battery drain by the same amount (around 50 shots). So shutter lag is reduced to around 0.044 second when set to SHORT from around 0.054 seconds in NORMAL. Because the electro-magnetic device consumes power battery life is reduced. In addition I've also been informed by J-Marc Guillermaut that "when used on my E-P5 by accident it also overheated quite a bit the battery and hence the card in the same compartment".
OBSERVATIONS: If you are photographing fast moving objects you may wish to have this set to SHORT but be aware of reduced battery performance and overheating. The manual also warns that if set to SHORT and the camera is knocked the monitor display may also disappear. For normal use set to NORMAL.
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1/ 原本的快門動作（沒有設定anti-shock）：
前簾關[震] -> 前簾開[震] ->CMOS擷取影像 -> 後簾關 -> 後簾開
2/ 設定"anti-shock 0"的快門動作：
前簾關[震] -> 前簾開[震] -> 鎖定秒數(據說是25ms)等快門震完 -> CMOS擷取影像 -> 後簾關 -> 後簾開
3/ 設定anti-shock其他秒數(eg.1/8s)的快門動作：
前簾關[震] -> 鎖定1/8s(黑屏) -> 前簾開[震] -> CMOS擷取影像 -> 後簾關 -> 後簾開
另外"anti-shock 0"無法在連拍時運作，原因可能是以下
1/ 影響連拍的速度，因為每次打開快門要有1/40s(25ms)delay，所以不能實現原來9fps，大若只剩下7fps甚至更少
2/ 增加運算的負荷，可能使運算上精準度會有誤差／影響相質
第1點是肯定的，但總好過沒有。第2點可能性較底，影像處理器未至於這樣不濟吧.....
vhsin964 wrote:
(除了電子快門以外，其他秒數設定，我也不太懂到底鎖住哪裡?)
大概是：前簾開 -> 鎖定秒數等快門震完 -> 然後CMOS擷取影像 -> 後簾關。
但是，鎖定秒數時，快門組件不震，手也會震啊！除非上腳架。...(恕刪)
ykch wrote:
https://ww...(恕刪)
昨天更新最新版的E-M1韌體，轉接50-200mmSWD之後，對焦比較果決，可謂「有感」的提升（特別在室內較暗的環境）。因為E-5剛賣出，無法AB Test，應該比E-5稍慢，但「有感」的進步是好事。
另外，14-35mmSWD 的對焦似乎也變得較快，但不明顯。不過，其實E-M1轉接14-35mmSWD，無論處在或明或暗的環境，原本就相當接近E-5。不像其他的4/3鏡頭，轉接時，可感受到對焦變慢的窘況（尤其在昏暗的環境）。可以確定的是：轉接之後，在昏暗的環境，14-35mmSWD對焦明顯比50-200mmSWD更快！
（※測試環境說明：昨天下午約兩點，自宅客廳，陰天，未開室內燈光，距窗戶八、九公尺的書櫃和家具）。
【補充資訊】關於E-M1和E-5，銜接大4/3鏡頭的速度比較（區分明暗的環境），請參考：
A HANDS-ON REVIEW FROM A 4/3RDS USERS PERSPECTIVE
SECTION 3[a]: E-M1 PDAF SPEED WITH A SELECTION OF 4/3RDS LENSES
http://www.biofos.com/mft/omd_em1_prelim_tst.html
https://www.flickr.com/photos/naluwanking/
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