順手拿起E-3 + 50-200mm舊版〈無SWD版本〉，測試C-AF。
不過由於黃昏光線偏暗，因此為了維持快門，ISO使用800。
獻醜了
sue.sean wrote:
最大光圈最大是f7
還是f3.5再加兩格??
f/3.5 - f/4 - f/4.5 - f/5.0 - f/5.6 - f/6.3 - f/7.0
-- 0 -- 1/3 -- 2/3 -- 1.0 -- 4/3 -- 5/3 -- 2
是加兩格沒錯阿
2x鏡光圈下降2格
1.4x鏡光圈下降1格
這有兩月發一次的英文pdf雜誌
可免費加入會員
第一期講很多E3...
內有很多作者經驗 包括不同場合機身設定
從4/3 PHOTOGRAPHER MARCH 2008第7頁開始節錄:
"Again I should say that for different situations
different methods will be appropriate.
If shooting a football game — I would probably start with
C-AF, Release Priority on, Diamond focusing pattern,
focus points Standard. I would shoot ESP metering
— most likely tied to the AF point. I also
would probably be shooting in Shutter Mode (vs.
Aperture, or Priority) with the minimum setting of
1/1000 or faster shutter speeds and have ISO set to
Auto with my limit around 2000 ISO. Here I am
just trying to focus on the guy with the ball.
If I was shooting an available light portrait for
a wedding or similar scenario I would be in S-AF
+MF, Small for small focus points, Release Priority
off, Single focus point toward the to edge of the
frame, My metering in this case would also most
likely be set to ESP + AF. My ISO would most
likely be either set to ISO 100, 200, or auto ISO to
max of 400. I would either shoot Aperture Mode, or
if light is low shoot Shutter Mode to keep enough
speed up to reduce blur — like around 1/125 second
of f2.0-2.8. I would be trying to focus on the
eye.
If I am shooting a landscape, I want a large
depth of field to get milky water. I want to save
all the highlights. So I would use either MF or
SAF+MF, with metering probably ESP. I would be
shooting Aperture Priority, ISO set to 100, Mirror
lockup and I would either have a remote cable or
self timer on the camera. The camera would also
be on a tripod. Shutter RLS priority would be set
to off. My DOF would be at least f8 or smaller.
However, I would imagine that the diffraction limit
(where the image begins to degrade from the size
of the sensor) will begin to start showing up after
f11. "
神鏡就是神鏡 加EC20 畫質還是一樣很好!
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